Відео

No, it was ABS. But G/Flex might work on HDPE as well. They say it works on many different types of plastic. You can call the company that makes it and ask them - 1-866-937-8797, 9am-5pm Eastern US time.

@thomasdeese9835 - it's all good. Just curious, what would you have done? Removed the old decals and apply new, or paint? I think it's insane that these RV factories put decals on that start peeling after a few short years. I wish they'd painted the stripes on to begin with. Best of luck to you.

Johathan - glad the video was able to help you out. Sorry, I don't know where you can get those parts, but a good bet would be to search around on ebay and/or amazon. There are a few places that sell RV-specific parts like Camco, Pplmotorhomes, All-Rite and probably others but I don't know if they have those specific parts. Another good possibilty is if there is an RV salvage yard near you. All the best, and good luck.

@@MTMiser Thank you so much for getting back to me, have a great day

It's like that old medical joke. What do you call the guy who graduated last in his med school class? "Doctor."

Only if you want to eliminate the possibility of cross chaining and ripping your derailleur off. If that isn't a concern (e.g., you don't cross chain in that direction, or you have a 1-by with a chain cut long enough for all gears), then this works fine.

There are lots of people running the long cage mod with a 42 without a link too.

It's normal for the fan to run for awhile before and after the burners light and turn off. Maybe a minute or two. If it keeps running beyond a few minutes, there's something wrong, but I couldn't say what the problem would be.

My condolences. 🙂 It's an awful lot of trouble to have to go through just to change speakers, but it's the only way to do it unless you don't mind getting in there with a grinder.

No - the clutch is not original. However, in 25 years and 312k miles since I bought this car the clutch has only been replaced once (in 2004 or 2005?) and is still working great today. I'm not sure if it was replaced in the 122k miles that were put on it before I bought it, but I doubt it. When I said the internal parts were original, I was talking about the pistons, rings, valves, bearings, cams, crankshaft, oil pump and that sort of thing, internal to the block and head. A clutch is something that will always wear out on any car and eventually need to be replaced - like alternators, water pumps, starters and that sort of thing, which have all been replaced at one time or another on this car as well. The clutch assembly part of the a/c compressor broke once and I replaced the entire compressor unit, early 2000s. I had to replace the radiator twice due to leaks, and also replaced the muffler once. The internal parts of the transaxle are all original except for the right-side axle seal. Both axle shafts have been replaced (once each) due to CV joints wearing out. Also the front windshield was replaced once due to pitting.

That's probably the best way to go. It is really a pain to do it the way I did in the video. But it was my wife's car, so I didn't think she'd appreciate me going at it with a grinder and a jack hammer, lol.

@@MTMiser well I ended up taking it all apart😂 I definitely would’ve not had enough clearance and no way would I have been able to take the bolts out holding the speakers down. Took me about an hour and a half but sounds 3x better! Thanks for the video. Now I gotta swap the head unit, install amp and subwoofer.

Glad it helped you! Yes, Mao liked to make cameo appearances in some of my videos. He was a lot of fun.

I used the C-clamp to squeeze the brake piston back into its cylinder, to make room for the new pads. As the old pads wear down, that piston comes further and further out. When you put new pads in they're, of course, thicker than the worn ones, so you have to push that piston in to make room for them. Thanks for watching my videos! I appreciate it. And best of luck with your first gen.

That red thing is a latch that holds the bottom part of the upper window in. That window is an "exit" window (for emergency use) so it is made to open when needed. Sorry about that being sprung. One of mine is like that too. When it bugs me enough I just go outside and push it in, and it will stay that way if I do that, at least until I open it again.

Thanks for your comment Robert. First, in 2017, when I did this work, the controller was about $115. Even today it is far below $300 at $177 on Amazon. Second, I replaced the flame sensor, and while I was in there, I figured I would also replace the pilot assembly and igniter because they looked dirty and I knew they were at least seven years old, but probably much older. Third, I replaced the main controller because I had read so many online accounts of that original one being a problem, and that the replacement one was much better. This resolved the problem of no spark, but although the burners would now light, the blower would not turn on and the whole unit shut down after a minute or so. So at that point I replaced the blower controller, and then it worked fine. So this was not a repair where I was troubleshooting to replace one defective part. I knew that no matter how many parts I replaced, it was still going to be far cheaper than calling an HVAC guy in there only to hear him tell me that the whole unit needed to be replaced, when I knew that wasn't the case. And the flame sensor, if it was a problem, wasn't the only problem. There were multiple problems, and I figured since I was in there I'd replace much of the inner workings so I wouldn't have to tear it apart again anytime soon. It's like doing a valve job on a car engine - while you're in there you replace seals, belts, maybe the water pump, etc. so you don't have to tear it apart again anytime soon. It's been over 6 years since I did this work and it's still working fine. I did have to clean the flame sensor about 3 years ago but that was the only issue in the past 6 years.

@dr.detroit1514 - If you're going to do the delete I would recommend you don't use the fittings that I used in this video. A while after I did this they started leaking brake fluid. A better way to do it is to gut the innards of the RWAL hydraulic unit and leave the brake lines hooked up to it. At one end of the unit is a large, thin hex-shaped nut, for lack of a better term, that you can unscrew to expose the inside of the unit. Once that's off, remove the plunger and spring that's inside, then put the hex nut back on and tighten it down. I removed the unit from the truck to do this, but it might be possible to do it without removing it. But if you do have to remove it, I think it was just two bolts holding it to the frame, and you'd have to unscrew the brake lines too. After you get it all back together bleed that unit to get all the air out, and you might possibly have to bleed both rear brakes as well. But bleed the RWAL hydraulic unit before the rear wheels, as it's at a higher point than the wheel cylinders are. Best of luck.

@@MTMiser Thankyou for the great info, I appreciate all the info and help, thanks!

@@MTMiser Well, I tried removing the plunger and spring, but putting it back on, it leaked badly for some reason, blowing out the rubber seal in the middle of the casings. So, I decided to try the fittings, my only option right now, only I plumber's fluxed and soldered the npt thread junctions, in an effort to seal it up. So far so good. I'm going to have to drive it and use the brakes for a while to make sure.

I believe they were 3/8" inside diameter.

That has been my experience as well. I would have rather replaced the hydraulic unit to keep the ABS for the rear wheels, but I couldn't find one of those anywhere. This is the next best thing, as my rear brakes were almost completely worthless with the faulty unit connected. They work great now, but no ABS back there.

Taking the foot off would help some but the tube went pretty far down inside of it so it wouldn't have been that much of an improvement. Going in and out at an angle is great, but sometimes there's no option to do that, especially when you're going in and out of parking lots or gas stations and there's a pretty deep gutter, other traffic preventing you from going at an angle, etc.

No, it wasn't necessary on my bike. There wasn't that much of a difference in the angle that the bike sat at. But I could see how that could be affected, if the rear was dropped quite a bit more.

Not sure, I've never had to do it. Just guessing, but you might need to disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine up first, if that's even possible.

@@MTMiser it looks like the manifold pipe had to go first then remove the sub frame. Kinda tough but I will try. Thank you

@@Ionlyexistpardner. I forgot about that pipe. Best of luck, and come back and tell us how it went.

De nada, amigo. Espero que te sirva de ayuda. Estuve en Chile hace mucho tiempo. Es un país hermoso. Feliz Navidad.

I'd suggest you don't do it then. But as far as for myself, I've been riding this bike regularly with the large cassette for day rides as well as a 600-mile tour over the past 5 years and I'm loving it. How anyone else wants to classify it doesn't matter to me in the least.

@@MTMiser Fair play and well done on the 600 your 💪👍

Most obnoxious comment here. What is wrong with you insulting someone who has taken time and effort to share what is actually a very popular mod. I feel sorry for you honestly. 😢

I'm not a certified HVAC technician either. Had no trouble buying the parts. As far as installing them yourself, only you can answer that question, assuming your local ordinances don't make it illegal for you to DIY natural gas equipment.